| The
History of Palm Springs
"50 Golden Years"
Excerpts from the book "PALM SPRINGS First Hundred Years"
by Former Palm Springs Mayor Frank M. Bogert
As Palm Springs grew, it soon became apparent that
the village needed zoning restrictions and other types of controls.
In November, 1936, a committee to study incorporation was formed,
with Frank Bennett as temporary chairman. On the 30-man committee
were Earl Coffman, Fred Markham, Warren Pinney, Alvah Hicks, Ralph
Bellamy, Phil Boyd, Culver Nichols, and Jack Williams.
Harold Hicks, selected as the permanent committee
chairman, called a meeting on August 14, 1937, to finalize city
boundaries, divide the area into seven wards, and draw up an incorporation
petition to be signed by property owners. After a number of discussions
with the county, the incorporation matter came to a vote on April
1, 1938. Not all of the town's 910 registered voters turned out;
the final tally was 442 in favor of incorporation, 211 against.
A very vocal opposition attempted to petition against
incorporation, but to no avail. Seven councilmen, one from each
ward, were elected: Austin G. McManus, John W. Williams, Frank Shannon,
Philip L. Boyd, Alvah Hicks, Robert Murray, and Dr. Bacon Clifton.
Boyd was selected as the city's first mayor. Other city officials
were Guy Pinney (Warren's brother), City Clerk; Ray Colgate, City
Attorney; Frank lngraham, City Treasurer; Lloyd Boiler, Chief of
Police; and Bill Leonesio, Fire Chief.
Under the guidance of Mayor Boyd, a very capable
businessman, the new city began with a solid financial foundation.
A 1939 census numbered 5,336 year-round residents with a seasonal
jump to over 8,000 people.
The city's four large hotels (El Mirador, Desert Inn, Del Tahquitz,
and Oasis) and the Deep Well Guest Ranch were packed during the
season, encouraging the construction of many smaller hostelries.
Irwin Schuman's Chi Chi Club became a full-scale nightclub, attracting
nationally known performers. Among the other leading restaurants
were Vic Sudaha's popular Palm House, the Foldesy family's Polynesian
restaurant in the Palm Springs Hotel, and George and Ethel Strebe's
Doll House. Trav Rogers started a Western nightspot appropriately
called "The Mink and Manure Club."
Hollywood's film colony
and tourists from all parts of the country discovered the desert
playground. Palm Springs was in its heyday.
Among the wealth of outdoor activities were nine stables, Tom
O'Donnell's golf course, and several tennis courts including Charlie
Farrell's prestigious Racquet Club. The city boasted more swimming
pools than any other place in the country. Bicycle rentals were
available at every hotel and a bowling alley opened in the center
of town. Everyone went to Cathedral City to gamble at AI Wertheimer's
Dunes Club, Earl Sausser's 139 Club, or Frank Portnoy's Cove Club.
Palm Canyon, with more than 2,000 palms is the largest of the canyons
owned by the Agua Caliente Indians. Riding and hiking trails extend
for miles into the canyon's upper reaches.
On December 7, 1941, people crowded around the Mashie Course at
The Desert Inn for the Annual Dog Show heard John Miller announce
that Pearl Harbor had been bombed. After the declaration of war,
a few people left town in a panic; those who stayed prospered.
Palm Springs was filled with soldiers and visiting families. Torney
General Hospital and Ferry Command turned the village into a year-round
resort. Though food rationing was a handicap to many hotels and
restaurants, customers were satisfied. Night life, however, was
a bit limited because of the blackout. (A little known, but interesting,
piece of history: Torney General Hospital housed a large number
of Italian war prisoners who worked as orderlies and at other jobs
around the facility. A happy lot, they had been taken prisoners
in the Libya campaign and were thoroughly adjusted to the desert
climate.)
When peace was declared, tourists returned in even greater numbers;
the village was back to normal. Though the need for additional housing
was immediately recognized, it took two years for building materials
to become readily available. The first new housing was started in
the Veterans Tract, east of El Cielo. Two million board feet of
scarce timber caught fire on the site, causing the largest fire
in the city's history. Though Bill Leonesio and his small staff
did a grand job in trying to control the fire, Frank Broes was the
hero of the day when he brought in a bulldozer and cut a firebreak.
Half of the precious lumber was saved, but the project was delayed
for six months.
By 1947, Thunderbird Ranch, a new high school, and several other
buildings were completed. Bullock's Wilshire opened their large
store on Palm Canyon, and Paul Trousdale, in partnership with Pearl
McManus, built over 200 homes in the Tahquitz River Estates. Almost
$600,000 in building permits were issued during the year for projects
within the city limits.
Other cities in the county also were prospering. Desert Hot Springs
added a new spa, Cathedral City built new houses and a fire station,
Ronald Button and John Culver started a new subdivision in Rancho
Mirage, and Cliff Henderson's project across from the small community
of Palm Village was the valley's biggest event.
Edgar Bergen, who had a ranch east of Thunderbird, talked Cliff
and his brother Randall into developing the 1,600 acres used by
General Patton's tank repair facility during the war. Cliff formed
Palm Desert Corporation, with Bergen and Leonard Firestone listed
among the directors. Fire Cliff Lodge and the Shadow Mountain Club,
several office buildings, and a few homes were built. Thirty years
later this area would become the city of Palm Desert.
The decade's other big event was the arrival of Avak the Healer
who arrived in town to cure Krikor Arkelian's son. For weeks in
May, 1947, the town was filled to capacity with invalids seeking
a miracle. Every newspaper in the country covered the story, but
no cures were reported.
The city's press coverage continued when Charlie Farrell was elected
its fifth mayor and the first to serve a six-year term. Shortly
after the election, the television series My Little Margie starring
Charlie and Gail Storm, was aired, making Farrell the best-known
mayor in the United States. To make sure that the city stayed in
the news, Cliff Brown of McFadden and Eddie, a Los Angeles advertising
firm, served as the city's public relations representative during
the 1950s.
Brothers Irwin (who had operated the Chi Chi for many years) and
Mark Schuman built the Riviera Hotel in 1952. With a large number
of rooms and a big conference center, they created the city's first
complete convention facility.
After many years of litigation, El Mirador Hotel reopened in the
fall of 1952. Roy Fitzgerald, from Chicago, and 17 other investors
formed the National Hotel Investors, Inc. and spent over $2 million
remodeling the hotel. When it opened, it was even more glamorous
than it had been before the war.
Though people had tried for many years to lease the hot springs
from the Indians, it wasn't until 1957 that Sam Banowit convinced
the Tribal Council that he could build a bathhouse that would return
an investment to them. The agreement stipulated that he relocate
the palm trees, sacred to the Indians, to another site on the property.
Though he.originally anticipated investing $200,000 in the project,
the final cost was $1,800,000.
After negotiating the first 99-year lease, Banowit built the adjoining
fivestory Spa Hotel. The tribe was to receive all the income from
the hot springs, which, together with their canyons and cemetery,
were never allocated land. Thus, the historical mineral springs,
from which the Indian tribe and the city derived their names, became
a world-class spa.
The high school on Ramon Road was a great drawing card to lure
families to the desert. After a hospital district was formed and
a hospital built in 1952, Palm Springs had all the facilities it
needed, except for an airport. One of the first accomplishments
of the city council elected in 1958 was the purchase of the airport
in Section 18 from the local Indians. The Ferry Command, who had
built concrete runways capable of handling any plane of that era,
had left all of their improvements when they closed the facility.
Celebrities began to build houses in the area. Lily Ports and Jolie
Gabor and her beautiful daughters built their homes on the same hill.
Kirk Douglas moved into the Las Palmas area and Frank Sinatra built
a large house on Alejo. Bob Hope, a long-time resident, was appointed
Honorary Mayor.
PaIm Springs' appellation as "Golf Capital of the World" considered
the Thunderbird and Tamarisk country clubs as part of the city.
Even Floyd Odlum's course in Indio was included in the count. Many
of the day's tournaments were played on those courses.
Polo, popular before the war, was revived, and several indoor tournaments
were played at the field club. Tennis tournaments at the Racquet
Club and Tennis Club brought the city worldwide acclaim.
Though Herbert Hoover had come to The Desert Inn in 1936 to visit
his friend, George Lorimer and Franklin D. Roosevelt had stayed
at La Quinta before the war, nothing equaled the furor of Dwight
D. Eisenhower's arrival in February, 1954. Over 2,000 people were
on hand to greet Ike and his wife Mamie.
The president arrived at 9:30 p.m. to be met by Governor Goodwin
Knight, Paul Helms, Paul Hoffman, and Mayor Florian Boyd. Crowds
lined the streets as the presidential procession proceeded to Smoke
Tree Ranch. Paul Helms' house became the Western White House. By
8 a.m. the next morning, President Eisenhower, Ben Hogan, Paul Helms,
and Paul Hoffman teed off at Tamarisk. The next day, at Thunderbird
Country Club, he was joined by Hawthorne Dent, Paul Helms, Leonard
Firestone, and John Dawson.
During his visit, El
Mirador Hotel housed all the press and security people. The whole
village turned out to entertain the press or anyone else connected
with the presidential party. The seven days of President Eisenhower's
visit brought more world recognition to Palm Springs than it had
ever received before.
On the president's return to Washington D.C., he signed the Equalization
Bill, which finalized the Agua Caliente Indians' land allotments.
He made many return visits to Palm Springs and eventually retired
to his home on the grounds of the El Dorado Country Club in 1961.
Harry Truman also spent considerable time in the village during
this period, staying at the home of Phil Regan at Tamarisk.
By December 9, 1962, when John F. Kennedy came to town on the first
of several trips, villagers considered themselves experienced presidential
hosts. Again, thousands of people turned out to catch a glimpse
of this very popular president.
On February 20, 1964, Palm Springs was the scene of a major international
event. President Lyndon Johnson had chosen the city for a meeting
with Mexico's President Adolfo Lopez Mateos to resolve a long-standing
dispute over a piece of land in Texas called the Chamizal.
The entourage consisted of the president, his wife Lady Bird, Secretary
of State Dean Rusk and his wife, and a contingent from the State
Department. Lopez Mateos had a similar retinue from Mexico. The
airport and the entire city were decorated with the flags of both
countries. On hand to greet the presidents were 200 white-costumed
Mexicali residents.
On a trip to London in 1966, Mayor Bogerr and Tony Owen induced
Prince Philip to come to Palm Springs for a polo match. The Pathfinders,
a local charity, were to share the proceeds of the match with Prince
Philip's charity, "The Duke of Edinburgh Award for Young People."
A crowd of several thousand attended the match between a Mexican
team and a California team at El Dorado Polo Club. Montie Montana
brought Prince Philip to the match in his four-up stagecoach and
let him drive around the field so that everyone could see him.
The Louis Taubmans, who had loaned their home for President Johnson's
visit, hosted Prince Philip and his entourage. A luncheon at their
house was attended by 400 of southern California's most socially
prominent people. Over 100 reporters and photographers waited outside;
only one photographer, Nancy Holmes, was permitted to take photos,
pictures which she shared with all of the media.
President Gerald Ford had visited Palm Springs during
his term as Vice President. When his term of office as president
expired in 1978, he returned to build a home next to Ambassador
Leonard Firestone's house at Thunderbird. The Fords have been
very active in all valley events, appearing at groundbreakings,
hotel openings, and charitable balls. The president has played
in all major golf tournaments. Mrs. Ford brings considerable recognition
to the valley through her alcoholic and drug center in Rancho
Mirage.
Walter Annenberg, former Ambassador to the Court
of St. James, and his wife Lee, former Secretary of Protocol for
President Reagan, built their beautiful estate in Rancho Mirage
several years ago. Over the years the famous guests they have
entertained would fill a book. For the past five years, President
and Mrs. Ronald Reagan have spent the New Year's week at Sunny
Lands, as the Annenbergs call their Estate. On February 27, 1983,
Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip visited the Amenbergs for several
days; the following year Prince Charles paid a visit. The Annenbergs,
like the Fords, are very involved in valley life. The Desert Museum,
Eisenhower Hospital, Bob Hope Cultural Center, and United Way
are but a few of the recipients of their charity. They have been
honored by many organizations for their contributions to the valley's
culture.
The people who made Palm Springs world-famous, such
as Einstein, Samuel Untermeyer, Mayor Jimmy Walker, and Jimmy
Swinnerton, would hardly be noticed today in the valley. On any
given day during the winter season, over 100 nationally known
figures can be seen around the desert. On the Forbes 400 list
of the country's most wealthy people, 28 have homes in the valley.
Even the Hollywood movie colony is just as numerous as before;
they will not, however, be seen walking down Palm Canyon as frequently
as they were in Palm Springs' early days. nationally known figures
can be seen around the desert. On the Forbes 400 list of the country's
most wealthy people, 28 have homes in the valley. Even the Hollywood
movie colony is just as numerous as before; they will not, however,
be seen walking down Palm Canyon as frequently as they were in
Palm Springs' early days.
The biggest growth in the history of Palm Springs
began in the early 1960s hen Jack Meiselman built the first large
tract of reasonably priced homes. Later, George Alexander and
his son, Bob, built hundreds of homes in tracts all over the village.
Sales were rapid; most tracts were sold out long before they were
completed.
Dick Weis and his father, Jack, came to town in
1962 with some fresh ideas which completely revolutionized the
second-home concept. Sy Simon had built a cooperative project,
but nobody had perfected the idea of condominiums until the Weis
family arrived. A new ordinance had to be written and many state
laws modified before the idea was accepted. Today, over 12,000
condos in Palm Springs and 85 percent of all second homes in the
valley fit into this category.
During the 1970s, an attitude of no-growth spread
throughout the city. The Planning Commission, City Council, and
most of the city's leaders were looking for ways to slow down
development. A group of homeowners entitled "The Desert People
United" exerted a strong influence and the council eventually
declared a six-month building moratorium.
The council came up with a new general plan which
down-zoned several city areas, increasing animosity between the
Agua Caliente Indians and the city as to the city's right to control
Indian land.
In October, 1977, the Under-Secretary of the Interior
sent a memorandum to the city which stated that the city could
not regulate zoning on Indian land. Mayor Russ Beirich and the
City Council faced a tremendous problem, which was finally resolved
by an agreement between the city and the tribe in which several
parcels were restored to their former, less-restrictive zoning.
The city was authorized to handle all zoning cases; however, if
a controversy arose, the city could be overruled by the Tribal
Council.
Mayor Beirich and his council had barely resolved
this problem when an even bigger one arose. On June 6, 1978, the
state's voters passed Proposition 13. The city, consequently,
was faced with a $3,300,000 tax loss. By June 17, the new budget
had cut 65 positions, closed two branch libraries, and made major
cuts in every department.
By the 1980s an entirely new philosophy toward development
was in evidence. The council elected in 1982 began an aggressive
program. The Redevelopment Agency, which had been in operation
for years, was activated and seven districts were put into position.
The downtown area was the first priority. Within the first year,
the Desert Fashion Plaza and Maxim's hotel were on the drawing
board.
The agency condemned the entire block from Andreas
to Amado and Palm Canyon to Belardo. Andreas Road was vacated
to make room for Saks Fifth Avenue and the building which had
been the Bunker Garage and Village Pharmacy was demolished. Other
buildings razed included the Village Theater, Chi Chi Club, Palm
Springs Hotel, and Nate's Delicatessen.
The beautiful Desert Fashion Plaza and Maxim's opened
in 1986 with 1,400 underground parking spaces and a number of
quality shops. The Marquis Hotel in Section 14 and Shilo Hotel
opened shortly afterwards.
An agreement was made with Texas developer Trammel
Crow to build the 400-room Wyndham Hotel and an adjoining convention
center on Caballeros and Tahquitz. Construction for the two projects
was started in 1986 and opened in November 1987.
PALM SPRINGS HERITAGE ASSOCIATES - PUBLISHER
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